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Shamrock Stalker 20' Center Console Boat

1989 Shamrock Stalker 20' Center Console Boat


Year: 1989

City: Tampa, FL

Stock: 16623f

Condition: excellent

Make: Shamrock

Propulsion: power

Price: $14,000

Listing: By Owner

Status: Available

Length: 20'

Model: Stalker 20

Engine hours: 278

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1989 Shamrock Stalker 20 for sale. (center console with cuddy cabin and windshield). Fully functioning, no work needed. Lots of work done by yours truly personally in my 8 years of ownership. Full Keel/Skeg for protection of all running gear in our shallow coastal waters. Removeable parts of the decks re-cored with marine plywood to fix poor factory job that installed piano hinges between the sections and made lots of holes that rotted out. Forward deck over cabin re-cored with composite core material and re-glassed with epoxy. Rest of decks solid. Boat painted inside and out with Awlgrip paint in 2014, paint in good shape. 2 new batteries last summer on a combiner switch. T-Top Recanvassed 2014. All Cushions Remanufactured 2014. (At the time I had 0 original cushions so upholstery shop re-created them all) Teak sanded down and periodically coated with teak oil. A.R.E. Double taper shaft with threaded press-on/press-off shaft coupling (no heating and beating couplers to remove) I couldn’t remove the coupler on the original shaft so out came the grinder and I cut that shaft in two. A.R.E. shafts are big bucks but worth it for how the coupling attaches. Acme Props 13×12 cupped x1” CNC machined NIBRAL prop new last year. Backup 13x13x1 prop comes with but does not come close to compare with modern ACME prop in performance and smoothness. Shaft Log replaced a few years back with the proper Buck-Algonquin log, recent packing in shaft gland and in rudder gland. Sea Hunt Towers Leaning Post with rod holders and storage (T Top and leaning post original to the boat and were expensive options in 1989). Original Detmar Cable/ Rack and Pinion Steering, no issues with it. All gauges replaced; hour meter changed out with engine so reads correct hrs. Ritchie Compass lit at night with gauge lights. Below Decks storage/fish boxes x 2 (I use for storage and one of the tubs is in my garage). 2 electric bilge pumps, one aft and one below engine, both work automatically and also manually with switch on dash. Bennett Electric/Hydraulic Trim Tabs that were original to the boat. I ended up replacing the dash switch a few years ago. This boat needs tabs to work most efficiently. Twin Fuel Tanks changed by prev.owner with OEM Tanks that are still being manufactured in S. Florida (Action Manfacturing). Small Cuddy Cabin for to store stuff and to get out of the weather. I never had the porta potti but the cabin liner is setup for a Thetford potti if desired. Anchor Pulpit and Delta plow anchor with 150’ of Line and 10’ of chain, 2nd anchor comes with. Full mooring cover made out of black Sunbrella that was custom-made around the boat as it sat on the trailer in the bay of the canvas shop in Apopka, FL.

Re-manufactured Ford 351 Windsor V-8 built and installed 2/2014. Have receipts/work order. There were very few 20’ Stalkers that shipped from the factory in Cape Coral with 351s so this engine was a very worthwhile upgrade after the fact. The previous owner had replaced the original Ford 302 with a 351 that was on its last legs, and I elected to junk it and start over. Why they did that I will never be able to figure out but I fixed it. The boat now has the feel of a boat that has max power installed. I have run/owned boats where the installed horsepower was marginal and this way is way better. All new internals, new marine cam with no overlap. The cylinder bores were bored .030 over as part of the remanufacturing process to give a consistent bore diameter between holes but crank was new so no machine work on crank and normal sized rod/main bearings were used. Heads machined, valvetrain components new. The engine was marinized by Indmar. Indmar and Crusader Conversions are the best because of the full cooling option and the crank mounted raw water pumps vs. belt drive pumps that PCM had. All Marine Grade: Carburetor (Holley 4010 dual feed), Starter, Alternator, and Fuel Pump, all new at time engine was installed except for the carb, which was overhauled at that time by Hobbs in New Hampshire. I found out this past summer when I needed them that they have closed up shop for good. Hot Rodders rag on the Holley 4010 but it has some particular advantages. Top comes off the carb, float levels can be adjusted with the carb installed and the lid on, and it has annular boosters so makes good power. I have never had any issues with mine, and it is what came with the engine as new because the fuel plumbing to the carb is hard pipe and it has connections for the 2 fuel feeds that the 4010 has. I have swapped out the alternator one time since when a short elsewhere killed the previous unit. Indmar thermostat housing set up for the cooling system and crank mounted Johnson F5 Raw Water water pump. The Raw water Pump housing itself is 2 years old, the impeller I changed last summer. I bought a rebuilt complete Borg Warner Velvet Drive 71C transmission before replacing the engine and the installer installed the engine and transmission bolted up as a unit. (Rapid-O Marine in Hollywood FL, does great work) There is no reduction gear on the transmission, the input shaft spins at the same speed as the output shaft. I installed a new transmission cooler last summer, the previous one was hopelessly clogged with sea grass and lead to the installation of the south bay strainer. Also replaced the hydraulic lines going to the gear cooler because the fittings on the old ones did not look good. (hoses made up at Napa here in Hudson) Racor Filter/Water Separator with palm primer installed to filter both tanks, similar to what is installed on diesel trucks and construction equipment. The primer lets you quickly fill the fuel system and the carb bowls so you are not having to crank the engine to fill the system if the boat has been sitting. After using the primer, the engine usually starts the first or second time the time the crank flips over, no matter how long it has been sitting. Engine has been run on Mobil 1 15W-50 Since new (diesel grade oil with high levels of zinc needed for non-roller cams like this one) You can run any oil you like, so long as it has the increased zinc level to protect the cam, or you add zinc yourself as an oil additive. Fresh rebuild on Carb last summer by myself to cure sunken float and decided to go the rest of the way while it was on the bench. New engine mounts at time of engine install, alignment perfect, aligned by me shortly after the install and checked periodically. Shaft runs true and no vibration at any RPM. 270 some odd engine hours. Engine Runs Awesome. Cruises at 2700-2800 RPM going 26 MPH and burning 9 GPH. Max speed is around 39 MPH @ 4100 RPM burning around 15 GPH. There are no computers on this engine, and the only non-legacy component is that it has a Pertronix electronic ignition module in the guts of the distributor. (The Prestolite factory module died a few years back and original part was NLA) Plugs/Wires/Dist Cap/Rotor last year as routine maintenance. Engine is simple, easy to work on and if you can fix your lawn mower, you can generally figure out what is the matter with this. That and you can get most engine parts from Ford or Napa, although certain parts need to have their coast guard numbers, mostly the electrical and fuel related parts.

Cooling System:
Full Closed Cooling System, the Exhaust Manifolds are on the closed side of the system, only part on raw water is risers (elbows). Much better than the so-called half-systems which the Prestone circulates in the block only and all the exhaust iron is on raw water. HEX was boiled out a few years ago by a radiator shop in Apopka and the end cap resoldered. I changed the zinc last year. Raw Water intake thru hull has brand new South Bay Strainer, so no more sucking up sea grass. Also has Groco internal raw water sea strainer (which doesn’t seem to do much for stopping sea grass) and a valved raw water engine flush. You can run the engine when the boat is out of water by sucking water out of a 5 gal bucket thru a length of detachable hard hose. Would also make an awesome bilge pump in an emergency at 25 gal/minute but thankfully I have never had to test this theory. Thru hull for raw water intake has a proper sea-cock and can be closed. I changed the exhaust risers out last spring, Manifolds were new with the engine and have only seen anti-freeze. The time before the last riser change, I ripped out the rubber exhaust hose and installed new after I got clogged up with sea grass good one afternoon and the hoses got pretty hot. I also installed some 45 degree fiberglass elbows so the hose run from the engine is easier to install and also easier to get the hoses off the risers at change time.

In T-Top Electronics Box: Garmin 740 Head Unit with GPS, sounder, and support for radar dome (no dome installed). NMEA backbone and power supply that at the moment is only being used to communicate with Garmin GFS 10 fuel flow sensor. Similar to Flow Scans, the Garmin version communicates with Garmin heads thru NMEA and gives instantaneous fuel flow readings and provides gallon countdown from full tanks) A very useful feature on a boat with twin tanks and no fuel gauges, although you can and I do stick the tanks with a special calibrated stick. Airmar B60 Sonar thru hull transducer with water temp. The old transducer conked out a few weeks ago after 7 years of service, I just installed a brand new one. Has Infinity stereo with Bluetooth and USB connectivity. Standard Horizon fixed mount VHF with 8’ fold-down whip mounted on the top. Also on the top, 3’ fold-down whip for AM-FM antenna, Garmin puck-type antenna for GPS signal.

Magic Tilt aluminum Tandem Axle. Late eighties vintage, it may have been the one sold with the boat but I have no way to confirm that. In any event, David’s Trailers (Orlando) did a bunch of work on it in 2013, they replaced the leaf springs, the axles, and installed Kodiak disc brakes on the front axle and installed the actuator on the tongue. 2” ball. Trailer has a 5-way harness with the 5th pin for the reverse lockout. I fabricated and installed the trailer cross members and the bunks (I had the original bunks but they were in bad shape. Shamrocks have variable deadrise and not only that but the hull bottom is curved so between that and the variable deadrise, straight bunks won’t work properly. I carved the new bunks out of 3” thick Cypress to fit the hull bottom using the old bunks as patterns. It fits perfectly. LED lighting on trailer. Trailer stored in my garage, boat hasn’t been on the trailer in several years but it is ready to roll and go anywhere you want to take it. I was routinely launching and recovering the boat solo when I lived in Orlando, the trailer setup is perfect. This is a big boat that you can handle yourself.

Spare Parts:
Most importantly, I have a 3 ring binder that is jammed full of receipts, parts diagrams, engine assembly diagrams, instruction manuals, supplier info, common parts references (v-belts, spark plugs, etc). I have a boxed Holley 4010 Marine Carb that Flying Fish Carbs in Largo, FL rebuilt, for all intents and purposes it is a new carb. It was set up and jetted for the 351, would only need to be installed, hooked up, float levels adjusted, and have the twin idle mixtures adjusted like all Holleys. I have a NOS Prestolite Marine distributor that I bought as a spare (no longer manufactured) I have a spare Indmar Ford Alternator Bracket. I have 2 spare Johnson Crank Mount Raw Water Pumps, an F-5 and a larger F-6 and a few spare impellers. I also have some spare carb parts, another set of plugs, and a Craftsman timing strobe, which I will have no further need of. As discussed above, I also have a spare prop, although it is a legacy prop and probably what was on it when I was sold new. I also have some hardwall hoses of varying diameters that could be useful. I have an ACME prop puller that can be used to easily remove the prop. I’m sure I am forgetting something.

Ready for the inboard world? Fishing over the transom is easy. You can beach the boat and the keel will protect the running gear. It runs, looks, and sounds like a tiny sport fishing boat. (Bertram, Cabo, Luhrs, etc.) Authoritative rumble from engine, with V8 engine and dual straight water-cooled exhaust. It is like riding a Harley, people can hear you coming and going. People will be coming up to you at boat ramps and wanting to talk about how cool your boat is and how sweet it sounds and how much they wanted one back in the nineties if only they could have afforded one. You can and should work on it yourself and parts are cheap. No need for paying mechanics shop rates to diagnose computer systems and other complicated systems that only certified technicians could diagnose. No emptying your wallet to buy parts from Yamaha. The four stroke outboard motor killed this style of boat for good, but they are really cool boats and a TON of fun to run. Not only that, but they fish well, ride well (very heavy) and the cockpits are roomy. We have fished it with 4 and had plenty of room to go around. It is plated for 6. The boat was hand-made at the Cape Coral factory (now gone) I have made 1 hole in the bottom with a hole saw to install the sonar and I saved the coupon, the hull is ¼” of solid glass, no cores. There are less and less of this type around every year. This one is in about as good a condition as it gets for a 32-year-old boat. I would be selling a boat and trailer that at the moment needs nothing. I have done all the hardest work for you. Buy something you will be proud to own and to maintain, different than what everyone else out there has, and a bit of southwest Florida history as well.
Why am I selling? Only to buy a bigger one!!! cash, US dollars only accepted, at a bank. No loans, IOUs, letters or credit, checks, or any other form of payment besides US dollars at a bank. Boat is on a rack at the Hudson Bch Marina but I can show on the weekends . Trailer is in my garage, but it will go with the boat. No offers accepted prior to your viewing the boat in person. Sea trials are gladly given, they are required, and will be scheduled after you have personally inspected the boat and I have accepted your cash offer. The reason the sea trial is required is that I need to show you how to run the boat. Not so much driving it, but operating its many parts and understanding the many systems that are at work under the deck as you are running. It is a little different than an outboard powered boat in that there is more to its operation than tilting the prop into the water and hitting the key. My spending the time with you will increase your awareness of how it all works and help you ensure its long and happy life. If you can run this one, you will understand how the biggest sport fishing boats out there, because they work the same way.


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